All Things Ethical Options Part 3

I’ve been looking into all things ethical for Harriet (and for my own interest) and thought other people might also like to find out a little more about who’s who in the ethical jewellery community This is the 3rd part of my research, so do look back for parts 1 and 2 on ethical jewellery options.

Fairtrade (Ecological) Gold

There are two standards for Fairtrade – Fairtrade gold and Fairtrade Ecological gold. The difference is that the Ecological gold has been mined without chemicals and therefore commands a slightly higher premium. The gold we use in our Fairly traded gold is Ecological.

Fairtrade Foundation

The Fairtrade Foundation is an independent, non-profit certification body which licenses the use of the Fairtrade Mark on products which meet international Fairtrade standards. This independent consumer label is now recognised by 72% of UK consumers and appears on products as a guarantee that disadvantaged producers are getting a better deal. Today, more than 7.5 million people – farmers, workers and their families – across 58 developing countries benefit from the international Fairtrade system.

Gold is pre-certified at the moment – see Fair trade gold for details.

FLO

FLO (Fairtrade Labelling Organisations International) is divided into two organisations:

FLO International – a non-profit association. It sets Fairtrade standards, develops Fairtrade business and provides producer support. It unites national Fairtrade rganizations across Europe, North America, Japan, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand, as well as producer networks representing Fairtrade certified producer organizations in Latin America, Africa and Asia. Today, more than five million people (farmers, workers and their families) across 59 developing countries benefit from the international Fairtrade system.

FLO-CERT – an international certification company that is owned by FLO but which operates independently. It is responsible for the inspection and certification of producer organisations and traders against the internationally agreed Fairtrade standards.

Fairtrade Premium

This is the amount of money that is added on to the cost of the gold that goes directly back to the ASMs. It is not marked up at any stage between mining and us selling it and this allows us to keep the difference in price to the customer between Fairtrade and non-Fairtrade gold as small as possible. There is a difference in the cost of fabrication since normal bullion dealers make so much of anything that they can keep their costs lower, and at the moment we’re more limited to the metal shape we can use in Fairtrade metal so the construction time is likely to be slightly higher than if we bought non-Fairtrade. All this means that the difference in cost between using Fairtrade and non-Fairtrade metal is more down to time in construction than to do with the premium.

There are two standards of Fairtrade gold – the ‘Fairtrade’ where chemicals like mercury and cyanide can be used but must be disposed of and treated carefully, and ‘Fairtrade Ecological’ where no chemicals are used at all which commands a slightly higher premium. The gold we use is ‘Ecological’ and comes from Oro Verde.

Fairtrade / Fairtrade gold standards

At the moment the gold we use is Fair Trade rather than Fairtrade – the distinction being that it has not yet got the official certificate with the Fairtrade Labelling Organizations International (FLO) and as yet is not entitled to carry the Fairtrade mark. Miners will be receiving their Fairtrade / Fairmined certification later this year.

Our Fairly traded gold comes from Artisanal Small scale Miners (ASMs) in the Choco region of Columbia. The people involved not only have to comply with or be working towards complying with FLO / ARM’s standard for Fairtrade-certified artisanal gold and associated metals, but they also have to have a clear environmental management policy.

The standards for the Fairtrade Mark for gold have now been set and we are among the first companies in the UK to be allowed to use this metal. The official launch will not be until February (to coincide with London Fashion Week and Fairtrade Fortnight, making much bigger impact) so we’re getting our ready to wear rings ready for then. The Fairtrade mark can be used on any gold jewellery that we make using Fairtrade gold, in both 9ct and 18ct, since it’s the gold that is being certified, not the other metals. All Fairtrade gold will come from ASMs not large-scale mining operations. It will be traceable to an area of the country it comes from but not necessarily the specific mine (eg. We will know we’re buying Oro Verde gold). Like any Fairtrade product the whole process will be under constant, independent review by auditors, ensuring that standards are adhered to and giving the customer peace of mind.

The Fairtrade mark is used in conjunction with the Fairmined mark on gold in recognition that the Fairtrade Foundation have worked so closely with ARM to produce the standards – they couldn’t have got to where they are now without each other.

At the moment there are no suppliers for 9ct fair trade gold in the form we would use it, but we’re working on it so watch this space!

Fair trade gemstones

These are difficult to source at the moment because we are so specific about what we want for a customer’s piece – it needs to be high quality, well cut and just the right colour, which is hard when you’re sourcing from a small scale dealer. We can buy packets of stones from a dealer in America but not on an individual basis. We have also started working with the very lovely guy who is involved with a ruby mine in Tanzania who will bend over backwards to find the right stone for us and can even get stones cut specifically for us if needed!

There is no such thing as a Fairtrade gemstone, but once FLO have sorted gold and associated metals then they are likely to start trying to do the same thing with gemstones too.

Fairmined Gold

The Fairmined Mark ensures that the gold has been extracted and processed in a fair way and responsible manner. This means that the miners receive a fair price, eliminate child labour, ensure good health and safety practices, care for the environment and participate in the social development of their communities.

The Fairmined mark is used in conjunction with the Fairtrade mark on gold in recognition that the Fairtrade Foundation have worked so closely with ARM to produce the standards – they couldn’t have got to where they are now without each other. Together they work towards ethical jewellery options.