Claw Setting

There’s no denying that the claw setting is seen as perhaps the most traditional of setting choices and the starting point for any Ring Setting Guide. In turn it is also rather popular!

But that doesn’t mean choosing this setting limits your bespoke design. In fact, you can vary the shape, number and orientation of the claws to make it your own. In our experience, people more commonly opt for 4 or 6 claws. However, 8 is also a possibility and even 3, 5, 7 or more! Basically, the rule is, the more claws the safer the setting…of course we will offer our expert design recommendations.

Maybe you want a more contemporary feel, something extravagant or would like a slight personal touch that still maintains tradition. Ultimately, the best part of bespoke engagement rings, and other jewellery, is that you can choose. What is an otherwise straight forward setting can become something truly unique for you.

4 Claw

This is perhaps the most traditional and frequently used. Over the years, we have designed variations to add some individuality to the ring. For example, shaped claws such as hearts or double claws. There are also options to alter the orientation of the claws, for example square on or on its points at North, South, East and West.

Another way to add a personal touch is to add detail into the side of the setting. Instead of a standard or double gallery bar, you could choose a sentimental design detail, from leaves, to buildings, to animal shapes and even gemstones.

6 Claw

This is the 2nd most common of the claw settings, where 6 claws are evenly spread around the gemstone. As with a 4 claw, the same variations in shape, style and orientation are available.

Talon claw

These are quite literally what you imagine when you think of a talon. The claws are shaped to point and add an element of definition to your diamond or gemstone. It is particularly popular with oval cuts, where the elongated stone suits the peaks. As with other claw shapes, you can choose the number of claws which can also be double.

When you speak to a designer you will discover the benefits of each of these options, until you find the right one for you.

All Around Setting

This is generally considered more modern, where the all around setting produces a neat, clean appearance. Contrary to beliefs, however, it’s actually the first type of setting ever used. It dates back to ancient Egyptian and Roman jewellery!

The diamond or gemstone is secured all the way around, by metal that is pushed up and smoothed over the stone. As a result, a very safe setting is created as there are no claws to snag and pull up. In fact, this is often the only setting we’d recommend for soft or brittle gemstones, such as emeralds and opals, as it protects the vulnerable girdle of the stone.

Whilst it can be a sleek flush way of setting your gemstone, it can stand proud, or we can also make it personal to you.

All Around Setting with Added Window

For larger stones adding a window in the side of the setting can really accentuate the look. It can be an opportunity to be more creative, where the window can be any shape you prefer. For example, square, circular, diamond, a heart shape or perhaps something unique to you.

This window is not only aesthetical but can also allow a little extra light behind the stone. It doesn’t impact a diamond’s sparkle, as it has ‘total internal reflection’ (light entering the top, bouncing around the stone and coming back out from the top), However, other stones that don’t have as good an internal reflection would benefit, such as aquamarines or sapphires. A designer will guide you on how to achieve the best sparkle for your stone.

Corner Set

A corner-setting is the perfect choice to keep your square or princess cut diamond or gemstone safe. It is an almost hybrid between claw (mostly exposed) and all around (totally concealed) settings.

It is essentially an all-around setting with chunks removed from the sides, which then means it’s possible to vary the shape of the removed sections.

In particular, this setting is a great choice for stones with points. The metal protects more vulnerable tips and there is less risk of the corners moving. For this reason, marquise and princess cut diamonds, for example, are often set in corner settings rather than claw.

Open Tip

An open tip setting is a version of the all around setting. Unlike the all around setting however, the tip at the bottom of the stone is visible from the side.

This is a great setting if you’re looking for the safety of an all around but want a degree of ‘openness’ to your design. Allowing not only to see your beautiful gemstone, but also to allow a hint of light through.

One main advantage with the open tip setting design is that it can be made so an un-shaped wedding band fits under the diamond. Meaning you wouldn’t have to choose a shaped wedding band, if you didn’t want one.

Side or End Set

A side or end setting is an in-between variation of an all around and a claw, where your gemstone is more enclosed than a claw, but more open than an all around. It allows the more vulnerable parts of the stone to be secure, whilst opening the girdle of the stone to be visible. This could be for a stylistic choice or for extra light to pass through the stone.

This setting still allows for creativity, where your design can be as unique as your imagination allows. From the side it can be curved to echo the swooping nature of your design. Equally, they could be more geometric – square or rectangular- if this suits your style better. More elaborate and fancy shapes are possible which you can discuss with your designer during your consultation.

Tension Style

We are frequently asked if we will set diamonds and gemstones into what are known as ‘tension’ settings. We always say no to these requests because in our experience, tension settings are unsafe. Your diamond will invariably fall out with even the smallest knock. In fact, we’re frequently asked to reset diamonds that have been knocked from their original tension setting. After experiencing the first-hand danger, we then secure them in safer settings.

As a result of this, we’ve come up a ‘tension look alike’ – a great alternative to a tension setting but with a little extra security.
The setting is designed so that, unlike a real tension setting, there is a bridge between either side of the band. Consequently, it ensures the stone is held in place more securely and more able to withstand knocks. As it runs under the stone the bridge is hardly visible so retains the openness aesthetic of a real tension setting.

Claw Set

This is the same as claw set central gemstones where your diamonds or gemstones are held in a row or scattered along the band with 4 claws. Depending on how the gemstones are set, you can also have different orientations.

Channel Set

This is what people would call a “traditional” eternity and band setting. The diamonds or gemstones are set in a channel which are enclosed either side and end. There are various ways to make a classic channel unique to you.

For example, it can vary in length: shorter or longer across the front of the ring or all around the band. You could end the channel at a point or a square, or you could graduate the gemstones sizes. The beauty of bespoke is talking through your options!

Scallop and Castle Set

Scallop and Castle settings are named due to their side shaping. They start as a band, and the setter removes metal to create claws and expose some of the side- shaped as a soft scoop or angular squares.

The scallop setting is much softer, with rounded claws on top, which can be single (consecutive stones sharing a set of claws) or double (each stone has 4 of their own claws). Meanwhile, the castle has a pointed/ triangular claw and an almost turret like view from the side. Due to the nature of the shaping, this will always be a double setting, where each gemstone has its own claws.

Invisibly Set

This is essentially when your gemstone is set flush into the metal. The gold, platinum or silver goes around each gemstone, with metal in between each. We consider this a more modern and practical option, as none of your gemstones are raised.

As with other options in this ring setting guide, you can of course make this unique to you. Consider setting various shapes gemstones in one ring or scattering them over the band with intricate engravings in between.

Star Set

This is a form of grain setting, within the band which has intricate line detailing in 4, 6 or 8 points. Ultimately, to create the image of a star. This is a popular choice when people want some extra detail for their scattered gemstones.

It’s also an ideal choice for capturing astrological inspirations too.

Shaped Grain

This is also a grain but shaped to suit your style and vision. Perhaps you want to mirror the shape of your gemstone or want to create a different shape to reflect an inspiration. We often design, for example, a round cut gemstone in a square grain for an Art Deco feel, or marquise grain for a leaf-like illusion.

Of course, the shape of the grain set stone doesn’t just have to be a square. In our experience, people also often want to reimagine inherited gemstones. So, while the original shape is not to their taste, creating a shaped grain setting is a way to meet their style but maintain the original stone’s sentiment.

Fishtail

This is another variation of the scallop setting, where the setter cuts into the side to quite literally create the illusion of a fishtail. From the top it looks similar to a scallop, however from the side is where you capture the depth of detail.

The angular qualities offer an iconic Art Deco essence with a sunbeam/fan look. Or of course, if you are a fantasy lover, follow the namesake creating a vision of mermaid lagoons, and inspiring creatures.