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Birthstones and Months- Part 1

Discover the significance of birthstones and months in eternity rings. Learn how to incorporate meaningful gemstones into your design.

Alice Rochester seated in Studio
Alice Rochester seated in Studio

With my own pregnancy over half way through and working as a Senior Jewellery Designer at Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery, I’m often asked what I’m going to do about an eternity ring. At the moment I’m still not entirely sure(!) but I’ve got a few ideas. Understandably, they incorporate our new addition’s, mine & my husband’s birthstones.

And on that note, I thought I’d share some information about birthstones just in case there are any other parents out there in search of  ideas…

For many hundreds of years, gemstones have represented different things, including the month in which a person is born. They also have their own set of beliefs and meaning attached to them, and are thought to offer protection to the wearer. Especially so when the gemstone is associated closely with that person.

I’m starting with the gemstones for the first third of the year. Discover how they can be used in jewellery and each birthstone’s properties.

January- Garnet
Garnet is generally known for its red or orange colouring but it comes in other colours too. These red tones vary between pinky shades, through russet to vivid orange. So, there’s a lot of scope to work with whichever colour you prefer! I particularly love the russet colours when used with rose gold. At around 7-7.5 on Moh’s hardness scale, it’s not the hardest wearing gemstone. As such, it tends to be a bit safer cut in rounder shapes. Cabochon cut stones take knocks a little better than faceted ones, however if you like a bit of sparkle then don’t be too put off. Keeping gemstones set at the front of an eternity ring (rather than in a full eternity style) helps keep them a little safer.

Within this birthstone, there’s also the green garnet: tsavorite. Whilst a very pretty, bright green, it isn’t quite as hard wearing as its red counterparts. We don’t recommend using tsavorite in cuts with corners (princess or marquise cuts) as they are more vulnerable. Luckily, in bespoke jewellery there’s design options to give the impression of different shapes!

Among other things, garnet symbolises truth and constancy. It is also reputed to repel flying insects; protect against lightning; ward off inflammatory diseases; and help the wearer to be firm and steadfast. People say it changes colour if danger approaches and that it helps perpetuate friendships.

February- Amethyst
Amethyst is a purple gemstone which comes in shades from the palest lilac right through to the deepest royal purple. It measures 7 on Moh’s scale, so benefits being set towards the front of a ring. It’s been used in jewellery for a very long time and is still very much sought-after, despite it’s Mohs scale. In ancient times, dark purple colours were particularly difficult to create in dyes so only the richest people could wear it. The gorgeous purple tones of amethyst therefore came to symbolise royalty, as well as piety since bishops & priests wore it too! It was also the original gemstone used in engagement rings.

The name amethyst comes from the Greek word ‘amethystos’ which means ‘not drunk’. There’s a story involving the Greek god Bacchus pouring his wine over a stone maiden, turning the stone into amethyst. Because of this, it’s been used in talismans against drunkenness as a result of both alcohol and the effects of passionate love! It is also thought to bring peace, calm, spiritual growth and stability, and help you connect to your inner self.

March- Aquamarine
Aquamarine is a beautiful gemstone which belongs to the same family as emerald. Its colour ranges from almost clear through to a greeny blue, all the while retaining its gentle sparkle like sunlight on water. In fact, the name actually translates to ‘sea water’. We often use it in jewellery inspired by the ocean; I particularly love it when it’s set in white metal. Natural 9ct white gold contrasts the creamy white with the blues, or platinum or palladium for a cool, crisp look. It also pairs beautifully with diamonds!

Aquamarine is seen as a calming birthstone that will also aid understanding and promote happiness.

April- Diamond
Who doesn’t love the bright white sparkle of diamonds?  If you, your partner or your new baby have an April birthday it’s a great excuse to use this iconic gemstone in an eternity ring.

Diamonds are the hardest of the gemstones, measuring a full 10 on Moh’s scale, which also makes them a more practical option. They are better than other gemstones, in terms of wearability, if you want stones going all the way round your ring. They also partner beautifully with other coloured gemstones too.

If you want diamond sparkle but also want colour, we can source heat treated coloured diamonds for your eternity ring. They are a more expensive option but are very pretty, and come in greens and blues as well as yellows, oranges and browns. (Natural brown diamonds are my personal favourites!) Pink diamonds are less common as the treatment process is less predictable. They occasionally occur when trying to treat a diamond to make it green!

Diamond’s hardness and durability make it a symbol of eternal love. It was even believed that Cupid’s arrow was tipped with them! The Greeks believed they were tears of the gods, whilst others thought they were moon dust or splinters of stars. They are also said to bring courage, victory and luck. Plus, of course, according to Marilyn Monroe, they’re ‘a girl’s best friend’.

Next time… May to August birthstones…