Choosing a setting for your bespoke engagement ring

Written by April Page on 5 February 2016

The first step on the path of the creation of traditional engagement ring begins with the choosing of the metal whether it be the pinkie hue of rose gold, the summer glow of yellow gold or the creamy grey of white gold. One of these metals is then coupled with a beautiful facetted stone which sparkles and dances in the light as the wearer moves their hand.

This tradition set me thinking can we use other cuts of stones in our engagement rings can we go against the normal tradition of facetted and shiny. The answer is yes, we have created many rings in our studios through the years incorporating what is known as the unconventional central stone.

There are many beautiful variations of impact stones that can be used, for example in this beautiful ring we used an uncut diamond and set it in 9ct white gold, http://www.hkjewellery.co.uk/ring-11313-1-victoria-s-unusual-engagement-ring-with-a-3-46ct-uncut-rough-diamond, the effect is a very striking completely unique ring which will never again be reproduced due to the fact the stone is uncut and there for its specific shape is unique to itself. Another amazing design we created was made using a piece of meteorite, though the stone is not shiny and bright it is a very striking centre piece which will give the wearer years of enjoyment and will mean that as the piece is passed down the family line it will always have a unique story, http://www.hkjewellery.co.uk/ring-9741-1-andrey-wanted-to-surprise-megan-with-a-very-unique-engagement-ring.  

Though using uncut stones in a ring can be deemed a little difficult as finding an uncut stone that takes the wearers breathe away does mean many stones need to be sourced in order to get the right look but once it has been found the final piece is always a show stopper due to its uniqueness. The use of uncut stones does not need to be exclusive to diamonds however, there are many stones that in their uncut form are very sticking for example tourmalines, they have a very cylindrical appearance and come in many variations of colour such as pinks, greens, even blacks, you can also find them in a form called watermelon which is a combination of green and pink. Amber is another stone which in its uncut form is very striking and the fun thing about amber is that it has various inclusions in it due to how it is formed.

The price tags on uncut diamonds can be quite high but by using an uncut semiprecious stone you can have a very striking ring which is more budget friendly. If you like the idea of having a central stone which goes against the norms of the facetted stone but you would prefer it to be more shaped you can always look at cabochons, these stones have been cut in a rounded form as you can see from these rings we have created in the past here in our studios, http://www.hkjewellery.co.uk/ring-3988-1-platinum-and-oval-cabochon-cut-aquamarine-with-diamonds , http://www.hkjewellery.co.uk/ring-11094-1-an-art-deco-inspired-opal-and-ruby-engagement-ring, http://www.hkjewellery.co.uk/ring-3959-1-an-18ct-gold-white-and-yellow-gold-topaz-engagement-ring. The rounded shape of these stones give the rings that little bit of quirkiness while still remaining elegant.

One of my favourite cabochon rings created in the studios is this ring which was designed around a grey star sapphire, http://www.hkjewellery.co.uk/ring-5683-1-palladium-engagement-ring-inspired-by-the-nights-sky-with-a-grey-star-sapphire-and-diamonds , this variation of stone is called a star stone due to the star effect which radiates of the stone when exposed to light, it makes me think of star dust which has been trapped in the stone, making the stones quite magical in my eyes. The actual effect is called asterism and can be found in a variety of stone such as sapphires, ruby’s, quartz and some garnets. It is quite a rare phenomenon so the process of  including this stone your ring would more than likely involve finding the stone first and then designing the ring around it.  

The process of finding the perfect stone and then creating the perfect ring can be quite a daunting task however with all the options available to you in the ring creation adventure it is always better, I have found, to have a focal point to work from and form the ring around it, so if the idea of metal type, ring design and shape and so on just sends you into a spin of indecision and panic, why not focus on the central stone. Find the stone that makes your heart skip a beat and the ring itself will melt around it forming that piece of jewellery that will last a life time and will provide stories for generations to come.